Wednesday, 28 March 2007

In the steps of Augustine of Hippo

The stone steps of the Roman Amphitheatre in Carthage are not the most comfortable seats to sit on after an hour, even on a star lit balmy evening in August. The concert was supposed to begin at 9.o’clock and like most things in Tunisia it is running late but everyone is in good humour from the jasmine and nut sellers wandering up and down the steps to the enormous crowds still ambling in unhurriedly.
As the music strikes up groups of aristocratic looking gentlemen in traditional long tunics which have remained in fashion here for at least two thousand years arrive and as the whole intoxicating entertainment begins with full audience participation, I feel this may well have been what Carthage was like over 1,500 years ago as a lively Roman provincial city.
This interests me for I am trying to recapture something of the atmosphere in which St Augustine of Hippo studied, lived, loved and later inspired his students as a charismatic teacher and then preacher in this idyllic place on the Mediterranean sea.
In the light of day Carthage is beautiful but with many reminders of its violent, prosperous and tragic past. On the green Byrsa hill overlooking the sea there is nothing left of Dido’s proud city or even the Roman villas built on those Carthaginian ruins where Augustine used to walk up to visit the Proconsul. Now on the summit of the hill is the 19th century Cathedral of St Louis which has mosaics depicting St Augustine’s life and behind it the National Museum of Carthage which houses the works of Augustine. Nearer the sea are the ruins of Roman baths, temples and walls, the arena where St Perpetua and Felicity early Tunisian saints were torn to pieces by the lions before Christianity became the state religion and the site where St Augustine presided over many of the endless Councils of Carthage to settle religious disputes. Not far away is the original amphitheatre regularly frequented by Augustine, a great theatre enthusiast, and his chums
The next day I sat in the sun overlooking the sea in one of the popular restaurants specialising in delicious fresh fish. As I sipped the fine Tunisian rose [forbidden of course in Islam but plentiful in Augustine’s time and for tourists now] I noticed small tourist laden cruisers tying up in the harbour - but when Augustine sailed for Rome in 383 he left from the Punic port which once held two hundred vessels. This lies a little farther along the coast and is now silted up and deserted.
Augustine spent four successful years in Italy as a professional rhetorician, first in Rome and then Milan where Ambrose was Bishop at that time. A zealous Manichean Christian Augustine became influenced by Ambrose and after much soul searching decided that his vocation lay in returning to his homeland and founding a monastery in the Christian Roman tradition.
The route across the North of Tunisia to the mountainous area in Algeria where Augustine was born on 13 November 354 and founded his monastery is rather different. Luckily the Head of Tunisian Health Spas offered to go with me as a guide and his driver took us past green hills with sheep and cattle [one rarely sees a cow south of Tunis] up steeper hills cutting through woods of cork oak and pine where there were signs up to say you could hunt wild boar. [In Augustine’s time there were also lions.]
We passed a number of small spas visited by the Romans and then drove down towards the sea into Korbous which has a great variety of healing springs where people come for treatments ranging from rheumatism to infertility. The Beys [Royal family] once had a summer palace here. We then went up into the hills into peaceful Hammam Bourguiba well known for its healing spring for respiratory ailments and its surprising Swiss style hotel clinic. The spring was used in Roman times and it is possible Augustine may have visited here for under stress he suffered breathing problems. In the hotel the tables as in Augustine’s time were laden with an amazing variety of Mediterranean fruits and vegetables like figs, almonds, oranges, olives to name a few because everything likes to grow here.
Showing my passport and visa we passed through the frontier into Algeria which was one with Tunisia until the French occupation. We drove through more oak forest, streams and springs, so untouched and fairy tale like I felt that one could spend hours or days here just thinking and meditating. When we stopped my companion cupped his hands and drank from a clear spring pouring out from under a rock saying what a wonderful fresh flavour it had and I could imagine Augustine doing much the same on the long trek by horse or foot to Annaba on the North coast [then called Hippo Regius] where he became a bishop. However he always felt very much at home in Carthage and as it was the diocesan capital he made the journey thirty three times in thirty years staying as long as he could and preaching as much as possible.
You would think that since Carthage and Annaba are harbours on the same coastline and not far from one another Augustine might have preferred sailing there on a fine day but the coastline then known as the Barbary Coast is rugged and dangerous and the sea was rife with pirates. In any case Augustine was not a keen sailor.
Up in the mountains some miles from Annaba is the birthplace of Augustine, a small place called Souk Ahras [then Thagaste]. His parents Patricius and Monica were Berber farmers who scrimped and saved so that Augustine would be educated in Latin and the classics like any noble Roman and his relationship with his mother was always very close.
In Annaba I saw the floodlit Basilica dedicated to St Augustine and his statue overlooking the harbour. Annaba is now a pretty French colonial town with mosques and in Augustine’s time a Roman colonial town, wealthy because of its fertile lands. Not far out of town there are still abundant olive groves that meant Augustine had no shortage of oil lamps when writing or studying into the night and he certainly missed this luxury when he was away.
The light is very special in North Africa, bright - almost ethereal - making colours clear and beautiful. Light was very important to Augustine and although he was not a great ‘Nature’ writer he wrote of the sun rising in the valley and perhaps this special sunlight was partly responsible for his passionate enthusiasm and energy which stayed with him throughout his long life. He died in Annaba in August 430 just as the Vandals were entering the city.
In Annaba my companion pointed out enclosed gardens with small fountains and bougainvillea, rosemary, lavender, jasmine and pots of mint. Arabs and Romans before them always loved such secluded gardens where they could walk or sit in the scented shade. Augustine too in later life wanted a garden like this for his monastery but where vegetables and fruit could also be grown for he made it a rule that a vegetarian diet was followed.
St Augustine is greatly revered among modern Islamic Algerians and Tunisians. After all he is one of their famous sons, and in many of their customs and in their character - passionate, health conscious, sociable and always eager to talk about God - I feel that as a very ordinary ‘untheological’ person I have got to know a little better this great, very complicated and fascinating Christian Saint.
First published in Church Times 12 January 2001 and in the anthology ‘To be a Pilgrim’ [pub. Kevin Mayhew] in 2002

Tuesday, 13 March 2007

Victor Horta and Freemasonry

Leaving the Eurostar at Gare Midi in Brussels, you come straight out into the wide square named after Baron Victor Pierre Horta. Farther along in Rue Americaine is Musee Horta and you cannot go far in Brussels without encountering places and buildings bearing his name and sporting the romantic curves and classical proportions of Art Nouveau with which he is associated. He was undoubtedly one of the most famous 19th century architects and skilled lecturers of Architecture but perhaps it is less known that he initially drew much of his inspiration from his dedication to Freemasonry.
This ambitious perfectionist was born in Ghent on 6 January 1861. He was initially attracted to music as a career but soon found he was more interested in Art and Design and switched his studies to Architecture. He was then lucky enough to become an assistant to Alphonse Balat, Architect to the King and lecturer at L’Universite Libre de Bruxelles, who guided him to expect the highest standards of himself but not to be afraid to make mistakes in order to realise his own potential.
In the 1880s partly due to people adapting to the new independent state of Belgium with its new boundaries and partly because of the enormous power of the established church Roman Catholicism, Belgian architecture and artistic design were embedded in a nostalgic rut harking back to the days when Flanders was a wealthy power. Only Neo-gothic or Flemish renaissance designs were used and no reputable craftsman would think of using new materials like steel or glass. Furthermore only the nobility and rich were thought worthy and able to appreciate beautiful houses and gardens and have elegant ornaments and even they were discouraged from wanting anything outside the old fashioned designs. Horta, inspired by the astounding British Crystal Palace [master-minded by Prince Albert] and influenced by the French impressionists, was one of many designers who wanted to use new shapes, colours and materials and also to give the less privileged the chance to enjoy public places that were beautiful and uplifting as well as serving their intended purpose.
With Horta’s high ideals and youthful desire to express his creative ideas, it was only to be expected that he should join forces with other young men with similar ideals which included Autrique, Tassel, Charbo and Lefebure. They all belonged to Les Amis Philanthropes, one of the most liberal and politically powerful lodges in Belgium and No 5 of the Grand Orient Lodge. They invited him to join and his first meeting in the lodge in Rue du Persil, next to Place des Martyrs, thrilled him. He found in it a movement of like minds and uplifting ideals as he later wrote in his memoirs.
‘Great returns from a small investment, especially since a meeting of Masons wasn’t an architectural association! But it was a respite for the spirits, an excitation of one’s energies. .......’ Just as there are those born to be in government, there are those who are moulded in the ‘dough’ of opposition: I was one of the latter politically, aesthetically, sentimentally. By nature, without flattering ourselves, we all were. In this closed circle, with its limited views about the quantitative and expansive views about the infinity of knowledge, there could only be amicable understanding; what pleased one pleased the others.’
He was initiated on 31 December 1888 and became a second degree Mason in December 1889.
His close friends in his lodge thought so highly of his skills they tried to persuade the Academic Council to appoint him to a vacant post as a lecturer at L’Universite Libre de Bruxelles. This had been founded in 1834 by the Esperance Masonic lodge, under the leadership of Verhaegen, as an alternative to the Catholic Universities like Louvain and was based on Masonic Principles where the curriculum supported ‘freedom of conscience... rejecting all principles of authority in philosophical, intellectual and moral matters.’
This had incensed the Catholic bishops so much they had condemned all Masonic Lodges in 1838 which led to all the Masonic Lodges combining to form the first Liberal Party, Alliance Liberale. [From 1854 to 1866 Article 135 decreed by the Grand Orient in 1833, which forbade political and religious discussion in the lodges, was repealed and even after it was reinstated, lodges got round it by regrouping outside official meetings.]
As well as Horta’s friends, Alphonse Balat, his teacher also approached the president of the University, Emile de Mot, a high ranking Mason. However De Mot disapproved of ‘preferential treatment for Masons’ and nearly rejected Horta out of hand. Horta did eventually get the job largely because of his own talent and dedication but it caused considerable disagreement on the Academic Council for some time.
His friends continued to support him and one of his first commissions in his second year after becoming a Master Mason in 1892 [he was not yet 30] was to design a house for Eugene Autrique, now a qualified engineer. Horta was determined that although it would be a fairly small town house in an ordinary road it would be special and given all the latest innovations and attention to detail that he employed in all his work.
With some colleagues I went along to visit Maison Autrique in Chausee de Haecht. It has recently been restored and with clever projection and use of audio tapes has been brought to life as it was in the late 19th century. In the semi basement kitchen white sheets hang up to dry in the heat from the stove while sounds of cooking go on. In the bathroom we see a projection of a lady bathing [much to the delight of the gentlemen visitors] and hear the sound of water running. Every room is beautifully proportioned and delightfully light and Horta has considered all the needs of the family both above and below stairs. He even used hand painted linoleum, the latest easy-to-clean flooring and an improvement on draughty ill fitting boards. [The ladies all felt they would like to live there]. It is on the outside of the house however that Horta with the approval of Autrique installed the many symbols which said to the listening world that it was a house whose owner and architect were not afraid to proclaim their Masonic affiliation.
The actual design of Maison Autrique is more medieval Tuscan than anything else, perhaps as a protest against Catholic conservative architecture. The designs on the mouldings, frames and brackets are abstract but the wrought iron grills on the kitchen windows contain certain symbols of triangles and shapes of hooded cobra or the uraeus on a pharaonic crown. Higher up are similar symbols on the parapet of the pseudo loggia and bel etage window. These are not dissimilar to the Egyptian motifs decorating the Grand Temple in Brussels. It is interesting that the pyramid triangle identified Autrique and Horta as members of Les Amis Philanthropes as this symbol appears on the reverse of the medal.
By the time Horta built Emile Tassel’s house, although he used a number of Egyptian symbols in his original design, the only ones to be seen are two purely decorative iron columns on either side of the staircase leading up to the main floor which probably represent the two pillars of Jachin and Boaz standing at the entrance to Solomon’s Temple. Horta was never short of Masonic clients but rarely used Masonic symbols on the buildings after this as the clients often held high positions in authority and needed to be discreet about their loyalties.
The Catholic Authorities were horrified with Horta’s designs and Art Nouveau in general, and ‘condemned it on the ground that its sinuous curves appeared to be the mark of a totally pagan lubriciousness, and forbade its teaching in the [Catholic] architectural schools of Saint-Luc.’ From that time Art Nouveau became associated with Freemasonry and its liberal politics. However Horta himself never involved himself in political fighting. He agreed with the Masonic moral and ethical issues but his particular style of Art Nouveau was unique and apolitical.
In 1899 he designed a Masonic plaque executed by the sculptor Victor Rousseau, in commemoration of Charles Buls, a former Worshipful Master of Les Amis Philanthropes who had played an important part in the development of Belgian Freemasonry. As he was also largely responsible for preserving the beautiful historic Grand Place it is placed there under the arcade of La Maison de l’Etoile. On the plaque a girl holding a compass and scroll represents hommage to Master Architects while a boy holding a lighted oil lamp represents the beginning of the quest for esoteric knowledge, enlightenment and immortality. Around them are acacia branches symbolising rebirth and by which the Master Masons identified the tomb of the murdered Hiram, architect of Solomon’s Temple.
As Horta’s career progressed he was commissioned to design many public buildings, among which was in 1896 La Maison du Peuple for the workers party. The inaugural speech in 1999 congratulated and thanked him for his ‘sensitive understanding of our needs and our aspirations. Horta has symbolised these and the work of the party in his glorious edifice.’
He was also responsible for Gare Centrale, Le Palais des Beaux Arts and several prestigious shops and even found time to build his own house in 1898, now Musee Horta, and give lectures at the Academies of Brussels and Antwerp [Anvers].
In the First World War when he was over 50 and a famous architect he left war torn Belgium and came with other elderly Masons to London where they opened a special Belgian Lodge. Here he continued designing and giving lectures [possibly in English!!] He also came in the Second World War. By then King Albert had conferred the title Baron on him for services to Architecture.
He died in September 1947 at the age of 86 and is buried in the cemetery of Ixelles, a suburb of Brussels. His grave is simple, he is only 4th on the list of the interred and his achievements hardly mentioned. La Maison du Peuple was later demolished.
He lived for his work, which cost him his marriage and most of his friends but he was totally true and loyal to Art and its ethics and if for example, the cost of building his design exceeded his quotation, he waived his fee. One could say he reflected Masonic ideals within his work all his life.
Katy Hounsell-Robert January 2006
Brussels is well worth a visit to see Horta’s houses, Art Nouveau generally and the memorials to well known Masons.
Eurostar is probably the most convenient and comfortable way to go as it arrives in the centre of Brussels. Standard class is fine for the two and a quarter hour journey and a return costs around £59. There are up to 10 trains a day.
Crown Plaza is an authentic Art Nouveau Hotel and Astoria is also a period hotel with staff with beautiful Art Nouveau manners. Nearby is De Ultieme Hallucinatie Brasserie full of Art Nouveau [the bar area is very atmospheric] and there is also Brasserie Horta, near the Comic Strip Museum. Falstaff near Grand Place is also quite Art Nouveau. You can eat very reasonably at all these places.
There is also a guide in the series Hommes et Paysages following the itinerary of Freemasonic memorials.
Maison Autrique is open from 12 - 18 hrs Wednesday to Sunday.
Musee Horta opens every day except Monday
The Masonic Musee is open on Thursday afternoon and the Temples only once a year in September.
Tassel’s House is open only by arrangement with a group
For information on Brussels visit www.visitflanders.co.uk Tel 0906 30202445
For Masonic information email cedom@skynet.be or telephone 02 217 9369 [within Belgium]

Monday, 12 March 2007

Sacred Art in Malta

Art expresssing inner feelings and a sense of faith is taken seriously in Malta.

Traditionally paintings and sculpture of events in the Bible or lives of the Saints have filled the palaces, churches and noble houses of Malta and especially Valletta, but there is now a feeling that spiritual awareness could be expressed in new and different forms and to this end the Metropolitan Cathedral in Valletta has been organising an exhibition of Sacred Art held in its dungeons and to which all artists are invited to submit, including those from abroad.